We
visited Oaxaca in 1998 with Pat's parents, John and June.
After
John's death June wanted to return to Oaxaca but she decided to go
to
Merida
first so we never made it back to Oaxaca. This trip is an
homage
to June.
Pat, John and June in 1998
We spent 10 wonderful days in Oaxaca city staying
at
Casa Maye. More on Casa Maye on page 3.
There is so much to see and say about Oaxaca - it is a
colonial city
with an ancient past and a modern city with industry and
culture.
We skipped many of the museums we had visited before, but who
can
resist the baroque churches? Let's get them out of the way
first:
The Churches
The cathedral is next to the zocalo, so you are unlikely to
miss
it. The stone gives the city its nickname "The Emerald
City". I had to be told it was green.
Santa Domingo de Guzman is considered the "must see" church.
Some
of
the stone here is greener.
Santa Domingo interior.
Work was going on when we
visited. The man was carving; the women painting, first
white
gesso, then pink gesso, then gilt.
Guadalupe church was at the north end of Llano Park and near
our
apartment
Soledad church is home of one of the 26 baroque organs in
Oaxaca
build
before 1776. Most have been restored and are being used
today. Unfortunately there were no concerts while we were
there. There is an International Organ Festival in
February. See
http://www.iohio.org/eng/home.htm
The side entrance of Soledad and the organ.
The Ruins
Another attraction of Oaxaca is the Mixtec and Zapotec ruins.
Zaachila is a small ruin site near Oaxaca. We took a
second
class bus to see the ruin and the market.
Pat atop the tombs with an unexcavated site behind her.
There are several great carvings inside the tombs.
More carvings.
Lambityeco is a site currently undergoing excavation and
restoration,
with shelter and viewing platforms for tourists.
Sun god carvings in the tomb.
These carvings are reproductions, the originals are in a
museum.
Some attractive stonework.
The ruins at Mitla are famous for these greca, or Greek style
fretwork. We bought a rug with these designs on our first
visit..
There are 9 basic designs repeated dozens of times.
A tourist with her guide.
Some of the original decoration has survived.
... and dozens.
Pablo converses with an archaeologist carefully measuring and
recording every detail.
The fretwork was carefully engineered not only to be beautiful
but to
be strong, shed rain, etc.
The church at Mitla was built over some of the ruins, and
even
used
Mixtec stones in its construction.
San Jeronimo church in
Tlacochahuaya was restored for a visit of the Queen of
Spain.
Another restoration is going on now, so we could not go inside
and see
the interior and the baroque organ.